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Not if the vinyl skin is intact. Over time there will occur some color fading but this can be prevented by periodic treatments of a UV protectant such as 303. The application of a UV protectant will create a slippery surface for a limited period of time.
One of the reasons we like 303 is that its water based and makes for a less slick surface. Nonetheless, when/if you treat the interior of you boat be cautious when you next use it to avoid slipping and losing your balance.
Yes and no. Very extreme heat can deform the canoe but the temperatures must be very high and very sustained. This is usually not a problem unless the canoe has been placed in a clear polyethylene sleeve or bag and left out in the sun. This can deform the canoe permanently but most people don't keep their canoes in a plastic bag. The problem occurs more often when new boats are delivered to a shop or customer and left outside in their packaging materials.
Royalex® is much more resistant to heat deformation than canoes made of polyethylene. Cold temperatures can pose a bigger threat. Royalex® canoes can be susceptible to cold cracks due to hull contraction and expansion. Wooden railed canoes are more prone to this than those with synthetic gunwales. Most canoe manufacturers have taken steps to minimise the possibility of cold cracks and include tips on how to store your boat for the winter season in their owner's manuals. More information on cold cracks and repair can be found below.
ABS Royalex® is an incredibly durable material but it is not indestructible. Back when Royalex® started to show up in canoes, it was nothing short of a revolutionary advance in canoe materials. Its functional durability put it in a class by itself compared to other available technologies of the time such as aluminum or fiberglass or wood.
Canoe manufacturers could be forgiven if they got a little too carried away with this almost magical material. Images of canoes sailing off factory roofs or falling from airplanes and surviving contributed to the growth of Royalex®'s reputation for being "indestructible."
Not particularly. Royalex® repair often consists of restoring damage caused by an accumulation of wear and tear and this type of repair is not difficult or complex. It does get more challenging if you're intent on repairing a boat that has been wrapped or severely distorted to the point where the hull has torn. The difficult part is not the actual repair of the hull material but in restoring the original hull shape. In situations like this, you are usually also facing replacement of the gunwales or rails as the hull can be distorted far more severely without permanent damage than can these structural members.
Repair of dents and deep scratches involves filling with Royalex® repair resin. Repair resin is a puttylike 2-part resin that cures to a hard finish. Some sanding will be required as well. Repairing tears or cracks requires multiple layers of Kevlar® cloth laid in and covered by the repair resin. Fiberglass cloth can also be used but the inherent flexibility of Kevlar® better matches that of Royalex®. Structural repair is generally done on the interior of the hull.
The outer (and inner) layers of a Royalex® hull is vinyl. There're there to provide UV protection for the underlying ABS plastic layers that in turn surround the foam core. The ABS layers are quite susceptible to UV degradation. The vinyl layers block that potential damage. Over time and considerable use, it is not unusual for that vinyl layer to be worn away. As the vinyl wears, you'll start to see a new color appearing. The vast majority of Royalex® material has been made with the ABS layers of a differing color than the vinyl skin. This makes it easy to gauge the wear on the vinyl layer.
While the canoe is still structurally intact, it is wise to restore that layer of UV protection to your hull. If the ABS has not been too deeply scratched or gouged a simple, albeit temporary, solution is to simply paint over the exposed layers. Most canoe manufacturer's provide color matched ABS Touchup paint You can expect to have to paint again in the future as the paint is abraded away. A more permanent option to consider if the wear is concentrated at the ends of the boat and the underlying layers are in good shape is to install a skid plate kit.
This will not only protect your hull's integrity but will add strength to the hull. If the ABS layers have been scraped or gouged you may need to consider filling with Harmony Royalex® Repair Resin and then painting over the new material. Repair resin is a thick paste that spreads easily and cures to an extremely hard finish. If properly installed, it is unlikely to require additional repair in the future.
Probably not, especially if the outer skin is not cut or missing. Flip your boat over and look inside the hull. If you don't see a corresponding crease on the inner hull surface most likely the damage is cosmetic. Structurally, the hull is fine unless you see that corresponding crease. This indicates the damage extended first into the foam core, compressing it, and then through the inner ABS layers.
If the boat is used primarily in milder waters, you can probably live with this damage if not too long or large in scope. If you're paddling demanding whitewater or going to remote locations it'd be prudent to repair it as this depression can become a "hinge" in event of an "incident." Some shallow dents can be repaired by heating the area with heat gun. This can re-expand the foam core. If necessary, structural repair would consist of reinforcing the damaged area with a matrix of repair resin and glass cloth applied to the inside of the hull.
Unless it's big the hole can be fixed pretty easily by taping a piece of cardboard with a piece of wax paper or plastic wrap on the outside of the hull and then building up the gap with layers of fiberglass cloth and Royalex® resin.
You may need to build a "jig" to reshape the canoe to its original form. This can be done with duct tape, cardboard, and wood as well as any other materials that come to mind if they'll do the trick. Be creative. If the damage is confined to one side of the boat, you can force out (or in) the damaged side by bracing temporary cross-members off the sound side of the boat. Run a line of rope or cord down the center of the boat from end to end and sight down the line to assist in making the boat as symmetrical side to side as possible. Gettinag the two sides of the crack to align can be trickier.
Any bracing or jig should be applied to the hull exterior since you'll be doing the repair primarily on the inside of the hull. Taping lengths of cardboard or thin bendable wood strips will often help the hull take its original "fair" curves or close to it. It can be challenging to conform the crack should it extend through the chines (where hull side transitions to bottom). Again, be creative. You can force a hull "out" by running a down brace from a thwart or yoke ending with a plywood or foam pad against the hull. If a thwart or yoke is not in proper position, make a temporary cross member and wedge it under the gunwale to anchor your down brace.
If you're faced with bringing in part of the hull to conform, it's a bit more challenging. It may sound counterproductive but you can drill two small holes close to the crack and run a line through them and up around a thwart or yoke and tension the line to conform the hull. In most cases the drilled holes will ultimately be covered by repair material so no further damage has really been done.
Probably what's happened is due to the adhesive or the amount of adhesive you used. Contact cement in particular emits styrene as it cures and if too much adhesive was used or the adhesive wasn't allowed to "flash off" before the outfitting was installed, the styrene will migrate into the hull where it can soften the ABS layers and break down the foam. The result is a soft wrinkled area in the hull.
This should be repaired as it is a weak point and can be the starting point for more excessive damage. Repair will involve removing the softened material and replacing it with successive layers of fiberglass cloth and repair resin. This is an entirely avoidable type of damage. Proper selection and use of your adhesive will prevent its occurrence.
Contact cement is commonly used as its simple to use, inexpensive, and it works. Use as little adhesive as possible, just enough to "skin" or cover the two surfaces to be bonded. Most adhesive damage comes from using excessive adhesive.
While highly unlikely in most regions of Australia, Royalex is susceptible to shrinkage when exposed to freezing temperatures. A sheering fracture (cold cracking) is a potential hazard if you live in area with rapid fluctuation or freezing temperatures, particularly canoes with wooden gunwales.
To avoid this hazard, consistent application of Gunwale Guard oil finish will minimise chances of cold cracking. Cold cracking is not covered under the canoe’s warranty. Cold cracks, should they occur, are repairable by contacting your local dealer. Synthetic Gunwales are less prone to cold cracking, but covering your canoe with an insulator such as a moving blanket can help lessen the chance if a severe drop in temperatures occurs