News and Events

Ask the Experts: Paddles - Straight, Bent or even (Gasp!) go Double?

Apr 07, 2011

One decision just about all canoeists face at some point is whether to opt for a straight shaft paddle or a bent shaft. For some, such as those paddling whitewater exclusively, it's a moot point, the straight shaft wins hands down. But for just about every other paddler, the decision merits some consideration.

The straight shaft paddle is the traditional, historic canoe paddle. Running true from grip to tip, the straight shaft has a lot of momentum going for it. Most of us learned to paddle straight, the wilds of Canada were opened by Voyageurs paddling straight shaft paddles. One might think with all that history and use behind it, why is there any discussion or debate?

Besides the evolution of synthetic materials, no development has impacted canoe paddles so much as the evolution of the bent shaft paddle. Bent shaft paddles have their roots in flatwater marathon racing, competitions where paddlers race 70 or a 100 miles or more and races are often decided by less than the length of a canoe. In such an environment, every possible advantage is pursued. Besides some other-worldly hull designs, racers developed strange looking angled paddles to maximize efficiency. To novice paddlers, these paddles look like they're backwards. Put a bent shaft in the hands of someone new to paddling and odds are they will first position the paddle so that blade is vertical instead of extending forward from the shaft.

Via analysis as well as considerable trial and error, designers and racers realized that with straight shafted paddles, within each stroke was the necessity to bring the blade back up to the surface in the recovery phase. Given that the straight blade presented the paddle in a downward angle at the end of the stroke, every time the paddler recovered he was effectively lifting the blade back to a horizontal position. This in turn would tend to make the bow of the boat dip slightly as the paddles were raised and recovered. This was particularly evident when the tandem paddlers aggressively stroked in unison, with each paddler's recovery accentuating that bobbing motion. It is well known that any force that makes the hull move in any direction other than forward slows the canoe down and decreases its' efficiency.

The question was how to reduce that lifting the paddle = dipping the bow momentum.
After some trial and error, it was found that offsetting the blade at an angle from the shaft positioned the blade so that water would literally run down off the blade rather than fight its' recovery to horizontal.

A complete analysis of the paddle stroke will also show the performance advantages of the bent shaft paddle. With a straight shafted paddle the tip of the paddle scribes an arc through the water from initiation to recovery. When the paddle is put in the water, the blade is positioned at an angle and only reaches a perpendicular position relative to the water when the paddle is near mid-stroke approaching the thigh of the paddler. As the prime power phase of the stroke occurs when the paddle is forward of the paddler and lasts until the paddle is beside the paddler, it was realized that the straight shaft blade was only in a position of maximum efficiency towards the end of the power phase of the stroke.

By orienting the blade at an angle from the shaft, the result is that the paddle scribes a much flatter arch through the water, particularly during the power phase of the stroke. The blade assumes a perpendicular position in the water earlier in the stroke and maintains it longer than with a straight shaft paddle. This translates to more efficient transfer of energy from the paddle stroke to the hull via the paddler.

This impact can easily be demonstrated in the store or on shore. Grasp a straight shaft paddle and then add a bent shaft to your grip, placing the bent shaft in front of the straight. Mimic a paddle stroke (you don't need to be sitting) noting the relative angles of the blades as the paddles pass through the stroke. You'll note that the bent shaft blade gets perpendicular earlier and holds that angle longer than the straight shaft. Note as well, as you recover the paddles that the straight shaft blade has to be raised through the water from vertical to horizontal whereas the bent shaft blade has a downward angle as it is recovered that encourages water to flow off the blade and does not reach full horizontal orientation until the paddle is out of the  water.

Thus, there are two salient benefits to a bent shaft paddle:  1) they present a longer and more efficient utilization of the power phase of the stroke and 2) cleaner less resistant recovery at end of the stroke. One might think that given those advantages that the straight shaft would be something of a dinosaur, but the straight brings its' own advantages to the beach.

As the straight shaft is just that, straight, it is an easier paddle to use for bracing and steering strokes such as prys and draws. A paddler knows almost instinctively that to get into a low brace, the paddle needs to be almost horizontal and parallel to the water to bring the full width and length of the blade into play. With a straight shaft, it's easy to get the blade into that position, place both hands low to the water. With a bent, one has to accommodate the blade angle by keeping the grip hand higher than the lower hand. Not only is this more awkward but the potential power of the brace is reduced by the relative positioning of the hands. There is also a greater likelihood that the blade could dive in rougher waters when bracing with a bent shaft paddle.

Prys and draws get a bit more complicated as well as again the positioning of the paddler's hands has to accommodate the blade angle to get the blade in the water parallel to the center of the boat. With a bent you either have to extend the grip hand further away from the boat to get the blade proper or you have to think about “reversing” the paddle so that the front of the blade becomes the power face in a draw stroke. Either way, the draw is not as powerful as when executed with a straight shaft. With top hand extended, the blade is much closer to the side of the hull, limiting both power and the ability to apply it. With the blade reversed, you have to push the top hand away from the boat while keeping the paddle from diving with the bottom hand. Both detract from the power of the stroke.

The same mechanics come into to play with pry strokes with paddler having to accommodate the blade angle before executing the stroke. In either stroke, in-water recovery is much more difficult if not impossible with a bent shaft paddle. If stealth is your goal while paddling this is a serious omission of ability.

 The other stroke that is compromised with a bent shaft is the time honored “J” steering stroke. The key to the J is twisting the grip hand at the conclusion of the stroke so that the thumb points down. With a bent shaft this can cause the blade to dive deep as well as putting the blade in an awkward position for recovery. Many devout bent shaft paddlers use a rudder-style stroke (thumb up!) as a steering or corrective stroke rather than the “J”.

Bent shafts come in a number of different “bends” usually ranging between 7o and 14o. The higher the number the more defined the offset between shaft and blade. 14o bends are favored by competitors and trippers who opt for rapid stroke rate and coordinated and frequent side switches. 10o is a popular comprmise, sharp enough to realize the geometric benefits of a bent shaft yet retaining some traditional steering bracing capabilities. With 7o paddles, you're moving more strongly into the steering and bracing abilities and away from the power generating geometry. The only way to tell what's right for you is to trial several different paddles with different angles.

So where does that leave us in pursuit of our perfect paddle? Well, it comes down primarily to the types of water you'll be paddling. If they're flat, open, with or without current, the bent shaft has a lot to offer. If your preferred waters are white or twisty/turny, straight shaft would likely be the weapon of choice.

The best solution for many paddlers is one of each; bent for the open water, straight when things get a bit more constricted. That's a very workable solution and keeps all the bases covered.

Just as when selecting a canoe hull, the opportunity to try a bent shaft is one to take advantage of. You'll never know until you try it whether it appeals to you or not. For some folks it's a matter of once they try bent they never go back; for others it's not so decisive.

Be aware as well that there is a difference to the style of paddling often used with bent shafts compared to straights. With straights, paddles tend to stay on one side longer with more frequent minute directional strokes employed to stay on course. With bents, paddlers are often switching sides every 10 to 15 strokes. This makes for a more efficient stroke and balances the wear and tear on the paddlers from left to right but in the eyes of many traditional paddlers it's not a pretty way to paddle. This style is called “sit and switch” and requires coordination between bow and stern paddlers with the change often called for as a “Hut.”

We all choose to go paddling for the freedom and escape it provides us. Don't let any dogma or doctrine infringe on that, try out both straight and bent shaft paddles and go with your gut, choose whatever feels right and go out and put it to use.

Now that we've thrown the bent or straight argument at you, how about we pile on and start talking about using double bladed paddles with canoes, or, dare we say it, kayak paddles?

It certainly is a viable option, there's no rule that says you can only paddle a canoe with a single blade paddle. You won't get arrested out on the water if you show up with a kayak paddle.

If one takes the time to look into the pre 1900 photo archives of the American Canoe Association (ACA), they will see what look suspiciously like recreational kayaks being paddled with a double blade yet defined as canoes in the photo captions. Thus, it's not like this is a newfangled notion or concept. Some of the most famous canoes of the day WERE designed to be paddled with double blades. The Rob Roy style of canoe with extended decks fore and aft and the pack boats favored in the Adirondacks relied on double bladed paddles for propulsion.

Like anything else, there's pros and cons to this one as well. On the downside, you'll likely be wetter come the end of the day from water dripping off the paddle and finding it's way onto your lap. Longer paddles tend to be heavier and more awkward, particularly in windy conditions and aren't as easy to stow when not in use.

On the plus side, doubles can make slow canoes fly and make it easier to stay on course in windy conditions or when wave and currents come in from the quarters. Less ruddering or corrective strokes are needed with double blades. It's simply easier to go straight.

If you are thinking about this option, plan to opt for paddles in the longer length range, 235cm and up. You'll need the added length simply due to the fact that you're sitting higher from the water in a canoe than in a kayak and most likely that canoe is a bit wider than a kayak. The last thing you want to do is to use a too short double and find yourself having to lean into and over each stroke, resulting in the canoe rolling from one side to the other each time you take a stroke.

You'll also need to consider the feather or angle of one blade to the other when thinking about a double bladed paddle. The new generation of adjustable feather paddles offer a great solution to this whole consideration by allowing you to adjust the angle to your liking every time out in all conditions.

Regardless of the style of the paddle you select, make sure it is of proper size to be able to keep the boat on the level while paddling. Having the canoe yaw from side to side is extremely inefficient and in rough conditions can be hazardous.

So, perhaps not too surprising, the answer to the latter question raised; double bladed paddles? Is ultimately much the same as the answer to the straight vs bent debate. It's a pick your pleasure situation. If it works for you, do it. Why not?  It is recommended that just as the option exists to take along one of each, that you bring a spare single blade paddle for each paddler in the canoe. There will be times when the single works better than the double and just about everyone's heard the old adage about being up @#$%'s creek without a paddle.

Notice it didn't say without a straight or without a bent or without a double, just without a paddle. Always have a spare paddle on board for each paddler. Always.